Unplug the charger, and the Volts change to what the battery's offering. This voltage doesn't change, nomatter what combinatio of main/aux battery I use, see below. The car's +12V terminal is being held at a rock-solid 13.08V while the granny charger is charging. Have been doing this for a few hours today to make use of some solar power, thought I'd see what BM2 and my voltmeter say. Maybe I'll get myself one of those mini ice-axe things for smashing safety glass windows if you get submerged in your car.Ī bit more info on what's going on with the 12V while granny charging. So I can well believe that a failing 12V battery might leave someone locked inside the car with insufficient power for the unlock motors to operate. I did not dare to lock it, in case it proved impossible to unlock! Didn't want to have to fiddle with the mechanical unlock, possible risk of alarm going off & deafening me! Presumably the brakes need a lot of power immediately to pump up the servo system, probably other pumps doing stuff, so the battery gets the equivalent of a cranking-load, but smaller.Īt this point I needed to shut the car down to wait for Delkor to be refreshed, so I simply turned off & closed the driver's door. Immediately a red warning message showed "Stop driving & check the braking circuit" or words to that effect! My plugin voltmeter showed 7.5V on the battery! Pressed the start button, car started up, presumably 10.5V was enough to pull in the contactors (phew) and get the main displays up. But back to the duff 12V!Ĭar was unlocked to begin with as I'd had the bonnet up. I'll see if that make any difference to my daily voltages. Desulphated/reconditioned the Delkor over a few (<8) hours ok. As I have a duff C1 battery sitting at 10.5V even after Ctek desulphate/recon cycle, and I wanted to desulphate my 2 yr old Delkor battery, I swapped them over. Please, if you have a BM2 monitor or similar, post some pics & info here, maybe we can agree if the car charges the battery in the right way or not, and whether it's possible to diagnose a damaged battery using this kit. Typically this topup is 15 or 20 minutes at 14.6V, and takes my battery from about 12.7V up to 13.0V, then it drops back to 12.7 over the next 24 hours, and it all repeats. It's doing this topup daily, someone here suggested this indicates a damaged battery and it should go for days/weeks without needing to topup. Here's a pic of a typical 24 hours, car not plugged in, but has the Battery Saver option on. I've now fitted a BM2 monitor, and the Android app syncs the data, and I'm starting to see what's happening. I have the 38 kWh, 2 years old, had it for 1 year myself, and recently had a vampire drain overnight which dropped the Delkor 40 Ah battery to 8.3V! My Li-ion booster pack failed to start the car, fortunately was at home so able to recharge it. Hi everyone, there have been rather a lot of 12V issues with various models of Ioniq.
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